Gourmet Fair

In the Line and Light of Creation

Daniel Brush, Maze, 1992. Close-up view. Pure gold, steel. Private Collection. Photo: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts – B. Chelly. Handout via The Gourmet Gazette


Paris, France — There is a gold-encrusted maze, the endearing elephant head brooch, and an orb of gold. All works by the artist, goldsmith, painter, sculptor and philosopher that is Daniel Brush. The self-taught American artist , who died in 2022, has been called an alchemist for his ability to create unique works fusing together art, science, poetry and philosophy all the while creating jewellery that defies the classic code of the art. L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, which is supported by Van Cleef & Arpels,  is presenting a retrospective dedicated to Daniel Brush showcasing more than 75 jewels, paintings, sculptures and objects by the artist, many of which have never before left his New York studio. Curated by his wife and collaborator, Olivia Brush, together with jewelry historian Vivienne Becker. The exhibition, entitled Daniel Brush the Art of Light and Line,  demonstrates how he was able to cross and transcend boundaries between art and jewelry. 

Daniel Brush, La Ménagerie Magnétique: Basset Hound, 2007. Plastic, resin, colored diamonds, ink, steel, gold, magnet. Private Collection. Photo: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts – B. Chelly. Handout via The Gourmet Gazette


The artist was also a collector of eclectic objects and antique machines and a scholar with insatiable curiosity and a towering intellect, he secluded himself in his New York loft apartment, with his wife Olivia, to focus exclusively on his work. Having made Olivia’s wedding ring, in 1967, mesmerized by gold’s texture, he gradually began to make jewelry by hand, as a change of pace from large-scale paintings, while immersing himself in the study of jewelry history and the rituals and roles of the jewel as magical talisman. The show explores the definition of a jewel, asking if it is a work of art, an object in and of itself or does it have to be worn. One of the more whimsical aspects of the show is his Ménagerie Magnétique (Magentic Menagerie) which are hand carved animal and bird brooches set with diamonds and precious stones but were made to be fixed to clothes by a magnet.  Characterful creatures inspired by the Animal Crackers that Daniel and Olivia’s son, Silla, loved to eat as a young boy, they also referenced Cartier’s famous menagerie of animals and birds, and challenged preconceptions of preciousness. 

Daniel Brush. La Ménagerie Magnétique: Elephant Head Brooch, 2006. Plastic, resin, diamonds, steel, gold, magnet. Private Collection.Photo: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts – B. Chelly. Handout via The Gourmet Gazette


“L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts is very privileged to showcase the creation of Daniel Brush, a protean artist who bridged arts and jewelry, captured the profound and almost invisible details of materials, while revealing the world’s poetry by capturing the ephemeral. After four previous exhibitions organized throughout the world, in Paris, New York, Hong Kong and Tokyo, we are honored to showcase a retrospective of his work, at the crossroad of cultures, arts and techniques. L’ÉCOLE’s approach focuses on bridging arts, science, civilizations, and eras. Daniel Brush’s work is deeply rooted in the past and traditions, yet helps us understand our contemporary world through the prism of perfection and contemplation,” commented Lise Macdonald, the President of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts. 

Daniel Brush. Nest: Butterflies, Ladybugs, 1990-1992. Pure gold, steel. Private Collection.Photo: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts – B. Chelly. Handout via The Gourmet Gazette

Established in 2012 with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts aims to introduce the public to all aspects of jewelry culture through various activities: courses, workshops, talks, exhibitions, books and podcasts. The Daniel Brush exhibition is on until October 4th with conferences, workshops and activities for adults and children rounding out the program. The school offers a wide program of courses and lectures throughout the year and has an excellent bookstore devoted to gems and jewelry on the premises, the Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau, an elegant 18th century French mansion and listed historic monument. ©Trish Valicenti for The Gourmet Gazette. The School of Jewelry Arts (L’École des Arts Joailliers), 16bis boulevard de Montmartre, Paris 75009, France. Exhibition: +33 (0)1 70 70 37 50. 

Admission to the exhibition is free but tickets need to be reserved at: https://www.lecolevancleefarpels.com/fr/en


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