It all began down in a valley. The Arce Valley in the Côte des Bar region of Champagne where there is a house of winemakers, Chassenay d’Arce, a champagne-making cooperative founded in 1956 by five pioneers and that brings together today 150 families and four generations of winemakers in the southernmost reaches of the northernmost wine-making region of France, Champagne country’s Côte des Bars in the Aude administrative region about 60 miles from Epernay. And Chassenay d’Arce was behind one of The Gourmet Gazette’s most memorable and festive champagne and food pairings in Paris at the Restaurant Excoffier Pere & Fils in Paris in the elegant 7th arrondissement.  You have to get it just right when accompanying a three-course meal with champagne and get it right they did. It turns out that Chassenay d’Arce champagnes not only fit festive occasions, they do fit most splendidly with a gourmet meal. 

In Paris, it all began with a Chardonnay 2018 extra brut, from the cooperative’s Caractères collection, made entirely from Chardonnay grapes and aged in oak casks. Round and structured, it accompanied a truffle soufflé Suissesse, soufflés being the specialty of the restaurant, this champagne proved to be a worthy companion to one of the most difficult to make classics of the French culinary repertoire. Another single grape variety was next on the agenda. The Pinot Noir 2018 extra brut, also from Chassenay d’Arce’s Caractères range. The Pinot noir grape brings a robust structure to the champagne and this was no exception, and it was perfectly paired with a full-flavored risotto of prawns and lobster broth seasoned with curry and ginger.

We particularly enjoyed the cheese course, unfortunately too often absent these days, for reasons unbeknownst to us. Rich Beaufort from the Alps, a fresh goat cheese and an aged Comté provided the backdrop for Confidences 2012 brut. This was a standout champagne from Chassenay d’Arce. Pinot noir for 83%, 15% Chardonnay and 2% Pinot blanc, a rare grape variety that is appreciated for its rich aromas, which came through in this decisive blend made with grapes emanating from vine plants that are over 35 years old, making for a complex champagne, perfect with the pungency of the cheeses. But what came next was  intriguing and delicious. 

The house produces a Ratafia Champenois, a spirit that is kind of a brandy, kind of a liqueur that is perfect as a digestive although it can easily be enjoyed  as an aperitif on ice. Chassenay d’Arce blends several  grape varieties for this liquid gold, distills them and blends them with a grape must. It is aged in oak casks. We would also like to bring a fabulous find to your attention. We had the opportunity to taste a very rare Pinot Blanc 2016 extra brut champagne unique to Chassenay d’Arce made entirely with the Pinot blanc grape variety. This was beyond excellent and something very special, very aromatic.  

The Arce Valley is lined with a very specific good earth, specific to the Côte des Bar that was once covered by the sea. Here a dark, unique layer of marl soil is found dating from the late Jurassic period, a soil named Kimmeridgian. Marl is an earthy material, rich in clays and silt imparting a unique quality to the grapes that grow in it. In the Côte des Bar, the vineyards are entwined with forests and the majority of the steep vineyards face south or southeast. Here the dominant grape variety is the Pinot Noir and the sun confers upon it fruity and delicate savors. It is a variety that has thus far well weathered the storm of climate change. Chassenay d’Arce became the first champagne house to obtain the Vignerons Engagés (Concerned Winemakers) label in 2021 for the actions it has undertaken to protect the environment, and engage in sustainable development. Today 7.7 hectares of its vineyards have been certified organic. You can visit Chassenay d’Arce and enjoy a tour of the cooperative’s headquarters, vineyards and facilities, a tasting or book a tasting of Chassenay d’Arce champagnes at one of the local restaurants.©Trish Valicenti for The Gourmet Gazette. https://chassenay.com/en/. 11 rue du Pressoir, 10110 Ville-sur-Arce, France, 33 (0) 3 25 38 30 70