Reims, France — It is always an imposing and sweeping site turning into the wide driveway of the 19th century Vranken-Pommery Estate in Reims in the heart of Champagne country. It is in fact one of those great champagne moments. Inside not only exceptional bottles of champagne and fine tours and why not a master class await, but an unparalleled art experience as well because for 20 years the group Vranken-Pommery Metropole under the helm of Paul-François and Nathalie Vranken has ardently supported and exhibited art. And this year the Vrankens are celebrating their 20th anniversary as owners of the estate, too, in their usual elegant understated style with three new exhibitions within the context of Forever, Experience Pommery #17. Because art is forever.

The house has, since 2003, hosted a Pommery Experience contemporary art exhibition in the depths of its in-activity Gallo-Roman cellars which are 98 feet (30 meters) underground and have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2015. Here contemporary creations are commissioned especially for the show. It poses an  exceptional challenge for the artists because of the depth and breadth of the spaces. The exhibition is visible only once the monumental staircase of 116 steps has been descended and the experience begins with the majestic ceilings and walls adorned with the colorful and dreamy installation art works.

The journey continues above ground in a gallery space in the Cellier Pompadour with contemporary works created especially for the show which this year focuses in on the history of the house and the genius of Madame Pommery, Louise, who was behind another innovation, perhaps even revolution in Champagne country when she asked her cellar master to create a champagne, regarded as the first brut champagne, that was low in added sugar content and the Pommery Nature was born back in the 1870s, a precursor for the champagnes that are coming highly into vogue today in the region. This show is entitled Forever Brut in a nod to that extra dry champagne and features the rich story of the house through documents and photographs, harvesting tools, the contemporary creations and a projection of French state dinner menus given for dignitaries at which Pommery champagnes were served. There is also a delightful corner devoted to Hollywood with champagne cooling in a clawfoot bathtub and a large black and white photograph of Kirk Douglas drinking champagne out of a shoe and another of Katherine Hepburn drinking it more logically out of a champagne glass. 

And for this special anniversary year a third exhibition, entitled Extra « Ordinaire » is being held in the manor house across the way, the Villa Demoiselle, juxtaposing contemporary art with classical pieces from the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Reims (The Fine Arts Museum of Reims) which is currently closed for renovations. The Villa Demoiselle is a jewel of the Art Nouveau era and it has been painstakingly and beautifully restored to its former glory by the Vranken family.

In these 20 years, the house has welcomed over 400 international contemporary artists. This commitment to creation is dear to the Groupe Vranken-Pommery Monopole and has earned them numerous distinctions including the title Great Benefactor of the Arts from the French Ministry of Culture. The uplifting exhibitions are always conceived by Nathalie Vranken. Fabrice Bousteau, a highly acclaimed art journalist, was the artistic director of the ensemble of the exhibitions of Forever, Experience Pommery #17. The Pommery guides are especially trained to guide you through the exhibition as well as the activities of the cellar. And afterwards, once you come out of the cellars and the Pommery experience, you can enjoy a glass of refreshing champagne as part of the tour. And beyond the original art experiences at Pommery, the estate itself offers a world filled with secret venues, delicious champagnes and fine gourmet dining. Here when Madame Pommery, first name Jeanne-Alexandrine known as Louise, took over the reins of the estate in 1858 upon the death of her husband, she set out to create a unique place, a place carved indelibly into the landscape of Champagne country. She planted acres upon acres of vineyards, making the estate the owner of one of the major vineyards in the region. She also purchased the walled 25-hectare Clos Pompadour, nestled right in the city of Reims. She was a woman ahead of her times for the estate was already open to visitors in 1874 who could explore the 11 miles (18 kilometers) of tunnels some 18 feet (30 meters) underground.

But after an art-filled morning and tasting, step into the estate’s Le Réfectoire restaurant serving classics of the French gastronomic repertoire (reservations more than recommended). Fine champagnes produced by the house include the Cuvée Louise 2005 Vintage, an exceptional champagne produced solely from wines from 2005 emanating from the Grand Crus growing regions of Aÿ, Avize and Cramant and aged for six to eight years. Another vintage champagne produced by the house is the Grand Cru Royal Millésimé 2008 Vintage. There is also the non-vintage and highly refreshing Brut Royale.

©Trish Valicenti for The Gourmet Gazette. Exhibitions until November 28th. Domaine Vranken-Pommery, 5 place Général Gouraud 51100 Reims, France Reservations: +33(0)3 26 61 62 56 http://www.vrankenpommery.com

https://www.champagnepommery.com