For 10 generations the family-owned house of Thomas Cheurlin has been working the good earth of France’s Champagne country in and around the picturesque village of Celles-sur-Ource in the Côte des Bar region.  Ancestral know-how, a new view over the vineyard —embodied by a sustainable approach to the land — and refined vintages are the hallmarks of the house all the while remaining independent and managed by the successive descendants of the Cheurlin family. With this exceptional background in hand, Thomas Cheurlin set out to create a new champagne, Champagne Vaucelle, complex and refined, he elaborates these elegant champagnes from the traditional grape varieties of the region, like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of course, but also the elusive and rare Pinot Blanc, known as the Blanc Vrai, meaning the real white grape. 

The good earth of the house’s vineyard provides an exceptional earth: the Kimmeridgian stage of the late Jurassic Epoch characterised by limestone and marl deposits from the pre-historic seas that once rolled and roiled here. That rare earth coupled with a continental climate produces perfectly mature fruits that enter into the champagnes of the house of Vaucelle. The name Vaucelle is no accident, in the local Champagne dialect Vaucelle can mean small parcel or small valley and some of the champagnes produced by Vaucelle come from a particular parcel or plot of the vineyard. Vaucelle also contains the word Celles, a reference to Celles-sur-Ource the family’s village of origin.

The line-up of the six Vaucelle champagnes emanate from the parcels or plots that have been cultivated by the Cheurlin family for 10 generations now and the result is a collection of six exquisite champagnes each unique in its own right, each a carefully curated creation from Thomas Cheurlin. The Gourmet Gazette recently had the opportunity to savor these creations in another famous food and wine pairing lunch at the Bistrot du Sommelier in Paris where once again the restaurant’s owner Philippe Faure Brac, one of France’s finest sommeliers, and his team created a menu worthy of the unique and refined champagnes of Champagne Vaucelle, demonstrating that food and champagne pairings are hugely successful.

It all began with a rich fish stew of fresh cod, mussels and crayfish in a cream sauce, perfectly accompanied by Champagne Vaucelle Terre Nacrée Blanc de Blancs, a refreshing affair made of 100% Chardonnay grapes with the fruits emerging from two specific plots of the house’s vineyards: La Faucillière and La Loge. This champagne was aged for 36 months which gave it its vitality. Next up was a hearty pâté en croute with a layer of foie gras. The dish is a layering of various terrines and meat and then wrapped in a crusty pastry shell. It was the turn of Champagne Vaucelle Terre Natale Blanc de Noirs to perfectly set off the expertly executed dish. Made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes, this champagne held up perfectly to the richness of this main course. The secret here lies in the fact that part of the wine in this champagne is aged in an oak cask, imparting upon the champagne a complex aroma and allure, perfect for a dinner menu. Last up was the éclair made with a local cheese from the Champagne region, the rich and creamy Chaource, garnished with berry fruits, strawberries and raspberries. The perfect pairing: Champagne Vaucelle Rosé – Le Suchot (the name of the plot) made with 100% Pinot Noir grapes and also aged for 36 months.

But there’s more, for the line of Champagne Vaucelle consists of six champagnes each one distinct in its own right.  We also tasted the Champagne Vaucelle Les Vallons, a dry affair mainly made of Pinot Noir with a « touch » of Chardonnay. It proved to be elegant and fresh. Meanwhile the Champagne Vaucelle Terre de Nuance, a limited edition affair whose splendid bottles are numbered  and whose taste changes every year depending upon how it is worked in the vats, hence its name Nuance. This is made from the rare Pinot Blanc or « True White » grape variety of the region, and is aged for 60 months, a total discovery in and of itself.  And not to be missed is the prestigious member of the collection Champagne Vaucelle cuvée Amassadeurs whose blend changes from year to year depending upon the harvest (by the by, the 2025 harvest in this region of Champagne was somewhat stupendous). Only 3,000 bottles a year of this champagne are produced and it is aged for a delightful 72 months. Cheers! ©Trish Valicenti for The Gourmet Gazette

Champagne Vaucelle, Maison Thomas Cheurlin, 17 Grande Rue, 10110 Celles-sur-Ource, France. Tel: +33 (0) 3 25 38 50 26https://champagne-vaucelle.fr/

For fine food and wine pairings in Paris: https://bistrotdusommelier.eu/bds/