These are some of the more fruity yet robust wines of France. They emanate from vineyards that revel in the good volcanic earth. Wine is old here, although probably not as old as the hills. Vineyards were established by monks and local feudal lords in at least the 10th century. These are the wines of Auvergne, Forez, Saint-Pourçain and the Roannais. 

This is a small and isolated set of vineyards located in the heart of France, the Massif Central region, where the mighty Loire River takes its source and as its name indicates is located in the center of France. Nestled between the industrial basins of Lyons, Clermont-Ferrand and Saint-Etienne, this region was once one of the leading wine producers in France, but today the surface of the vineyard has been so dramatically reduced it is often absent from wine maps of France. And it is clearly a wine-producing region not to be missed. 

Fortunately the men and women who work the good earth of these vineyards have come together into an association to preserve these delicious and unique wines. The Loire Volcanique association brings together 43 wine growers in this region producing whites, reds and rosés and even some unusual sparkling wines, both dry and sweet, all here in the center of France where volcanoes once fumed. 

And all of the regions sit on volcanic soils of basalt and granite influenced  by the magma rocks with the only exception being the Saint-Pourçains which thrive in the sandy Bourbonnais, granite and chalky clay soils. All of the AOCs are produced here, the Designated Labels of Origin and there are a number of interesting IGPs as well. IGP is the French acronym for a protected geographical indication (PGI). Each of the wines has its own distinctive character. 

The regions benefit from an exceptional climate with cold and dry winters and hot summers with the vineyards growing in altitudes ranging from 650 to nearly 2,000 feet (200 to 600 meters) and it is this altitude that has preserved the vineyards, thus far, from the effects of global warming. 

Gamays are the grape variety of predilection here occupying some 80% of the vineyards but a host of other varieties come into play like the Tressallier, also known as Sacy, of the Saint-Pouçain region and others as well including Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot gris and surprisingly  Gewurztraminer. The Gamays that are endemic to the region are the Gamay Saint-Romain and the Gamay d’Auvergne. 

It is interesting to point out that this is not intensive wine growing country for the region is peppered as well with fruit orchards, livestock and various cereal crops. We can’t possibly introduce to you in detail all of the 43 winemakers — there might be more soon as the association is open to anyone producing wines in the Loire Volcanique territory – please do visit their website at http://loire-volcanique.com/ where you will find detailed information on the association, the region and each wine estate.

©Trish Valicenti for The Gourmet Gazette.