It was back in 2015 that Richard Mille boldly chose to design watches with cases made entirely of colored sapphire. Today, the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire collection has been enriched with four new versions – including one in lilac, a brand-new shade – and new, eye-catching  interpretations of the gem-set dial. This new collection combines the attractions of a clean design with the mechanical complexity of fine watchmaking, all part of the house’s signature watchmaking techniques. 

At the heart of this crystalline setting is an intriguing and attractive dial with perfectly symmetrical geometric shapes and refined aesthetics. This central graphic design showcases the art of the master gem-setter. The stones adorning this watch catch the light to enhance every facet of the sapphire case, decorating the dial, bezel and flange. A cabochon also embellishes the crown. Here, precious stones, including dazzling diamonds, hypnotic blue sapphires and vibrant yellow sapphires, are combined with ornamental stones such as orange spessartite, white agate or opal, and various shades of green tsavorite, chrysoprase and malachite. Setting gems into this particular material is a feat of engineering, as a laser is required to perform the mitraillage, that is drilling holes for the stones. This must be accurate to the nearest micron. Prongs in hand-polished gold, made separately, are then inserted, creating the multiple settings that hold a graceful row of diamonds. 

Meanwhile the sapphire case required over 1,000 hours of machining of which 430 hours are devoted to pre-forming the case parts and 350 hours are reserved for polishing the entire case. The use of sapphire at Richard Mille involves major constraints and unique expertise. The brand’s iconic tonneau-shaped case is especially difficult to craft because of its curved lines, which render it particularly ergonomic and comfortable to wear. 

Protected by its sapphire case, the CRMA5 in-house skeletonized automatic movement, displaying the hours and minutes, is wound by a variable-geometry rotor making it possible to configure the winding of the movement to the activity of the wearer by adjusting two small weights. This compact calibre enjoys a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire is limited to seven timepieces for each of the four versions: gem-set pink sapphire, lilac sapphire, green sapphire and gem-set green sapphire. ©Trish Valicenti for The Gourmet Gazette  https://www.richardmille.com/